PAUL NEWMAN

*

HYPE FASHION QUOTE

*

Paul Newman

*

" The light that you think you emanate

is not necessarily the light that other

people see. You think of yourself as

a shy, retiring whatever it is, and

some other people will see you in

an entirely different way......

you have to constantly learn.

Obviously, you have to start with

some kind of gift, but people

don't understand that......

I don't have a gift for anything.

I've only had a gift of pursuit. "

*

Paul Newman

1925-2008

DIOR WHO

*

Hype score: +

*

Christian Dior

*

Galliano is taking a walk down

memory lane and taking a pit

stop in the 80's.

Lots of eye candy for the

rag mags and plenty of looks

for any color carpet but little

to actually wear!

*

CHRISTIAN DIOR

PARIS

SPRING 2009

WESTWOOD OR BUST

*

Hype score: + +

*

Vivienne Westwood

*

Love it or hate it !

Doesn't matter its classic

WESTWOOD!

*

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

PARIS

SPRING 2009

ANTONIO TIGER

*

Hype score: + +

*

Antonio Berardi

*

All the spring trends are present

in this collection hot color blocking,

transparency, embellishment,

as well as the popular shapes.

Wearable as well as desirable

should make this designer

popular, come spring.

*

ANTONIO BERARDI

PARIS

SPRING 2009

UNDERCOVER IS RIGHT

*

Hype score: +

*

Undercover

*

A somber collection all in white

with some interesting shapes

and fabrications.

The presentation was a bit weak

using only mannequins in a

gallery space......it didn't so

justice to the clothing.

*

UNDERCOVER

PARIS

SPRING 2009

MAISON HOMELESS

*

Hype Score: BOMB

*

Maison Martin Margiela

*

A collection to celebrate 20

years of hits and misses.

Sure to get the rag mags and the

"fashiondrones"

hot to trot, for the rest it was a

great performance art piece.

*

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

PARIS

SPRING 2009

HELLO YAMAMOTO

*

Hype Score: + + + +

*

Yohji Yamamoto

*

The go to collection for a spare

sharp cut that hints of an

intellectual spring.

The avant-guarde mixed

with great wearable shapes,

the best of both worlds.

*

Architectural - Shape - Cut

*

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

PARIS

SPRING 2009

NO NO NINA

*

Hype score: 0

*

Nina Ricci

*

A one note wonder of a

collection.

It will make for

beautiful pics on great looking

girls. It will help sell sluggish rag mags.

It will loan out well

to the few that need the press.

Will it make mag rag editors

wet......For Sure!

Will it sell........Doubt it!

*

NINA RICCI

PARIS

SPRING 2009

BALMAIN GLITTER

*

Hype score: + +

*

Balmain

*

It was a rock chick feeding frenzy

as this collection hit the runway.

A bit tacky and tawdry

with a heaping of frost,

but hey, it put Versace on the map

in the 80's. Should work magic

that decade is a hot trend.

*

BALMAIN

PARIS

SPRING 2009

PUGH UGULY

*

Hype Score: BOMB

*

Gareth Pugh

*

There is a point at which

art needs to depart

from fashion and this collection

has surpassed that point.

*

Sure to get some mag rag

and museum play but I suspect

that will be it!

*

FASHION HYPE

*

GARETH PUGH

PARIS

SPRING 2009

HUNGER FOR VANDEVORST

*

Hype Score: 0

*

A.V. Vandervorst

*

A collection with the look and

feel of a badly costumed

soft porn film involving

vampire schoolgirls and

headmistresses.

*

A.V. VANDERVORST

PARIS

SPRING 2009

GREEK HASH

*

Hype Score: +

*

Anne Valerie Hash

*

To drape or not to drape

was never the question with

this collection. It shows a

decidedly Grecian influence

not only in the draping but also

in the sheerness due to the

use of chain-mail on a few of

the pieces, giving the collection

a unique look and feel.

*

ANNE VALERIE HASH

PARIS

SPRING 2009

PIETERS OUT

*

Hype score: +

*

Bruno Pieters

*

Cardin was the inspiration

for this collection and

it reflects a sense of sharp

cut and construction but

without the space age influence.

A contrast in black and white

with a few shades of gray

gives the collection a unique feel

of color blocking without the

use of color. Giving an

interesting take on a popular

spring trend.

*

BRUNO PIETERS

PARIS

SPRING 2009

ASSCHE IS WRONG

*

Hype Score: 0

*

Kris Van Assche

*

If this collection was inspired

by the Latin American chola,

then she must be in a depressed

mood. A collection full of basic

shapes and dull color combos

won't get the blood boiling

come spring.

*

KRIS VAN ASSCHE

PARIS

SPRING 2009

SLICK RICK

*

Hype Score: 0

*

Rick Owens

*

This collection will make the high

priestesses of the rag mags

sit up and get hot.

Its has a thrown together

feel that will appeal to the few

"fashiondrons"

that want the newest and oddest but

over all its not his best work.

*

RICK OWENS

PARIS

SPRING 2009

Dolce Dolce Dolce

*

Hype score: +

*

Dolce & Gabbana

*

This duo is far from dynamic

this spring offering a sleepy

take on the season.

If you want the look, save some cash

have Sulka make you some silk foulard

men's jammys get a ribbon sash

and some of Granny's large

broaches and tie them around

your waist and top with a brocade

bed jacket.

*

When anyone asks just reply

"It's so Dolce"

*

DOLCE & GABBANA

MILAN

SPRING 2009

D SQUARE

*

Hype Score: +

*

Dsquared2

*

These twins are so cute

you just want to love them

to death.

I wish I felt that way about their

collection this spring.

If I want to look like

a super hot 70's

Russ Meyer vixen then

this vixen is headed to

the main man for that look

Roberto Cavalli!

This collection is a pale

imitation.

*

DSQUAERD2

MILAN

SPRING 2009

NOT SO FOND OF FINDI

*

Hype score: +

*

Fendi

*

You know Kaiser Karl is

always the first with an

idea. He can turn them out

in his sleep. They get lots of

press from the rag mags

but in all honesty,

how often are they truly

anything more then eye candy.

This collection is just that,

its a great visual feast,

leaving a few looks that

work in the real world.

*

FENDI

MILAN

SPRING 2009

MAX YOU MADE THE PANTS TOO LONG

*

Hype Score: 0

*

Max Mara

*

In a time when spending less

is on the horizon and

only useful well made

long term wearable clothing

is in the for front of decision

making. Why did a great

designer of well made traditional

sportswear decide this collection

was a good idea for spring.

*

MAX MARA

MILAN

SPRING 2009

LUISA IS SO SWEET

*

Hype Score: + +

*

Luisa Beccaria

*

A wonderfully feminine

collection for spring.

Highlighted by ruffles

mini floral print and light

fabrication. She has no story to

tell or angst to show.

She just enjoys being a girl

who makes beautiful clothing

for the same type woman.

*

LUISA BECCARIA

MILAN

SPRING 2009

JEWELED MAURIZIO

*

Hype Score: + +

*

Maurizio Pecoraro

*

A comfortable and colorful

collection for spring.

Perhaps a bit over styled

using large over sized jewelry

to be able to see the cut and

detail of the clothing.

It was a very romantic grown

up interruption of spring.

*

MAURIZIO PECORARO

MILAN

SPRING 2009

ZIP IT VERSACE

*

Hype Score: +

*

Versace

*

It was a collection filled

with zippers as embellishment

on structured clothing.

*

Makes you long for the good

old days when Versace

was a little bit sexy

and a lot rock and roll.

*

The Julie Verhoven print

used toward the end of the

show had a great feel of

spring about them.

*

VERSACE

MILAN

SPRING 2009

NOT SO PUCCI

*

Hype Score: 0

*

Emilio Pucci

*

If your looking for a fun

in the sun moment with

Pucci then the only clothing of

interest should be something done

by Emilio himself.

*

This collection takes a half

hearted attempt at Pucci

DNA but comes up

"No fun in the Sun"

*

Matthew Williamson is leaving

so better luck next time!

*

EMILIO PUCCI

MILAN

SPRING 2009

DITA VON NO TEASE

*

FASHION ROADKILL

*

Dita Von Teese

*

When she gets it right she

looks great, but when she gets it

wrong........she looks

like a 1950's matron.

*

This is one time she needs

to strip quick!

*

DITA VON TEESE

Dolce & Gabbana

Front row

Milan

Spring 2009

MARNI IN THE MORNING

*

Hype Score: + + +

*

Marni

*

Circles and disks were the

eye catchers in this spring fling.

Repeated through the collection

either in the print or the

embellishment the circle

has made a comeback.

*

Marni is always a go to

for unique pieces that set

apart the average look.

*

This collection doesn't

disappoint, its great eye

candy for the girl who enjoys

a good "circle"!

*

Color - Fabrication - Texture

*

MARNI

MILAN

SPRING 2009

GUCCI GOO

*

Hype Score: + +

*

Gucci

*

How many times can you

spot the same suit in a collection?

In this one often, its a

key look for Frida she

shows it in several fabrications

and uses it to transition

into different vibes

within the show.

All the Gucci signature

pieces are present and

accounted for, and who could

ask for more.

*

Shape - Trend - Color

*

GUCCI

MILAN

SPRING 2009

ROBERTO DOES CAVALLI

*

Hype Score: + +

*

Roberto Cavalli

*

Cavalli does Cavalli!

Not trying to reinvent

the wheel this designer

gives us a greatest hits

collection.

His sensual clothing is always

a favorite with the girl

who is secure and enjoys

attention.

*

Who doesn't like attention!

*

Bold - Brash - Sexy

*

ROBERTO CAVALLI

MILAN

SPRING 2009

DELL'ACQUA ISN'T ALL WET

*

Hype score: + +

*

Alessandro Dell'acqua

*

A collection that is always

true to the designers concept,

never one to follow trends

this season has found himself

very on trend.

He even makes lets the

fringe be fringe and not

try and bend it to his will

as one other designer

"attempted" to do.

*

Sheer - Shape - Drape

*

ALESSANDRO DELL'ACQUA

MILAN

SPRING 2009

POLLINI PIROT

*

Hype Score: +

*

Pollini

*

A small collection as the

new designer team gets a feel

of the house.

*

Some color blocking mixed with

sheer and perhaps a hint

of 80's inspiration are just a

hint of whats to come.

*

Cut - Color - Shape

*

POLLINI

MILAN

SPRING 2009

YOUNG DERERCUNY

*

Hype Score: +

*

Derercuny

*

This collection gets more

youthful each season,

its got a tailored girlie

vibe that's right for spring.

*

Embellished - Tailored - Feminine

*

DERERCUNY

MILAN
SPRING 2009

ICEBERG MELTS

*

Hype score: 0

*

Iceberg

*

This is a perfect example

of what a too literal translation

of a previous decades

look will do.

*

Why not hit the vintage stores

and look for hot 80's

large shouldered and tight sheered

body conscious looks.

*

Be even more original

wear an original.

*

You know its fashionable

to recycle!

*

ICEBERG

MILAN

SPRING 2009

KNIT ONE PERLA TWO

*

Hype Score: 0

*

La Perla

*

This collection has a distinct

70's vibe that just

didn't look very appealing.

It had no direction and

certainly no excitement.

*

Dull - Bland - Boring

*

LA PERLA

MILAN

SPRING 2009

MET POSEY

*

FASHION ROADKILL

*

Parker Posey

*

There is a fine line between

unique and just plain odd.

PP is one of the downtown

indy girls who usually gets it right.

Just not this night!

*

It looks like she picked cotton

all afternoon and then hit the

attic for something to wear

to the opera.

*

Little did she know,

that it was going to look

like this.

*

Just plain sad!

*

PARKER POSEY

Opening Night at the Met

New York 2008

RAGGIN ON PRADA

*

Hype Score: BOMB

*

Prada

*

Miuccia was inspired by

schmattes R us for spring.

*

This one is sure to get the

"fashionatas" moist and

with a lot of advertising

money spent get the collection

editorialized and then later

we will all see it on the

mark down racks

world wide!

*

HYPE FASHION ALERT !

*

PRADA

MILAN

SPRING 2009

ETRO ME TRO

*

Hype Score: + +

*

Etro

*

Go east young woman was

the inspiration this

spring.

A fusion of eastern inspiration

mixed with modern

interpretations of print and shape

make for a beautiful and subtle

spring at Etro.

*

Print - Color - Shape

*

ETRO

MILAN

SPRING 2009

SANDER ON THE FRINGE

*

Hype score: +

*

Jil Sander

*

The 101 ways to use fringe

was the theme this spring.

Great for the rag mags

not so great for street wear.

When Raf gets down to cut and fit

in a minimal manner few

do it better.

This show would have shown

better with a few statement

fringe pieces.....to make a

point not a collection.

*

JIL SANDER

MILAN

SPRING 2009

MOSCHI NO

*

Hype Score: +

*

Moschino

*

A mere hint of the playful

spirit of seasons past.

It has the look and feel

of spring but not the usual

fanciful and playfulness

you expect from Moschino.

*

MOSCHINO

MILAN

SPRING 2009

BLUM IN SPRING

*

Hype Score: + +

*

Blumarine

*

Anna Molanari has put

glitter and color into a

spring collection when all

around her the feel of spring

is more somber.

Lots of on trend shapes fused

with great spring pastels and prints

make for a playful feminine spring.

*

Embellished - Colorful - Fun

*

BLUMARINE

MILAN

SPRING 2009

BOTTEGA GOES WEST

*

Hype Score: 0

*

Bottega Veneta

*

What do you get when you

mix leather armour

and antique faded prairie

prints.... and put them on

dirndels and shirtwaists.

*

Spring at Bottega Veneta.

If the inspiration was the state

of the world then this collection

sees a bleak future.

*

No one will leave the house in it!

*

Dark - Heavy - Antique

*

BOTTEGA VENETA

MILAN

SPRING 2009

SALVATORE NEEDS HELP

*

Hype Score: 0

*

Salvatore Ferragamo

*

The inspiration for this collection

was save this house.

So lets mix identifiable

bits and pieces of Ferragamo

DNA onto cloth and everyone

will say Genius!

*

Wrong!

*

Stuck in the middle between

avant- guarde and traditional

won't appeal to either customer

old or new.

*

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

MILAN

SPRING 2009

AQUILANO E NO

*

Hype Score: +

*

Aquilano e Rimondi

*

This collection has the air

of a very Parisian designer

who is very popular......

I think its time to get your

own inspiration one that isn't

an also ran to Lanvin.

*

Cut - Paste - Copy

*

AQUILANO e RIMONDI

MILAN

SPRING 2009

WINTOUR TIME NAP

*

RAG MAG HYPE:

*

Anna Wintour

*

Anna take a hint.....look in the

mirror and see that you look

as tired as your rag mag.

It time to get rid of the old and

bring in something fresh and new.

Even Andre LT isn't up your yeng

yang anymore......doesn't that tell

you something!

*

Put on your Chanel shades and go!

It's way past time!

*

ANNA WINTOUR

FRONT ROW

MILAN

SPRING 2009